Gucci joined the spare-no-expense Resort show club yesterday, flying guests in from around the world to New York City’s art district, Chelsea. Newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele charmed with geek chic – the nerd glasses, the pom-pom hats, the prim bow-and-nosegay collars. In an explosion of color, patterns and decorative flourishes it all came together in a mixture of whimsy and nostalgia. Colorful, eccentric and unabashedly retro, Michele called it “a modern translation of decorative. It’s one of my obsessions,” he said. “I tried to put together some beautiful kind of dressing in an eccentric way.”
Dior Cruise 2016 Show at the home of Pierre Cardin
Le Palais Bulles Théoule-sur-Mer near Cannes
With shape one of the essential ingredients of fashion, Raf Simons and Dior sent home an unforgettable message for the cruise 2016 season, parading an architectural, yet frothy collection at Pierre Cardin’s otherworldly Bubble Palace, whose interlocking spheres cling to the rocky hills above the Bay of Cannes.
“Look at this view. The most amazing place in the south of France,” Simons said during a terrace preview. “I find this architecture exceptional,” Simons said. “I find it very young, feminine and playful.”
Le Palais Bulles: A utopian project that encompasses earth, sky and sea, where the future is built organically from the forms and architecture of the past. In this Collection Croisiére, Raf Simons, Artistic Director of Christian Dior, looks to the landscape and memory of the South of France.
Gaining inspiration from the colors, textures and light of the natural world of the Cote d’Azur, together with the style of the people who have inhabited it, the designer draws on tradition and technique to realize clothing for today. In so doing, Le Palais Bulles (Bubble Palace) becomes a metaphor for the approach to the collection overall.
I wanted an idea of freedom, playfulness and individuality to come to the fore in this collection, especially in consideration of the Dior archive,” explains Raf Simons. “It is not a heavy concept; it is light and young and there is a literal lightening of this clothing to make it fresh."
"Much of the design architecture comes from Mr Dior’s manteaux, his coats. But the heavy fabric is stripped away, the scale is played with and elements of their style are ‘collaged’ into other forms and garments.”
“We tried to make it very, very light, and much younger, and therefore also more futurist and modernist.”
With actresses Marion Cotillard, Dakota Fanning and Zoe Kravitz among front-row guests at the finale evening show, the Dior event seemed an unofficial curtain-raiser for the 68th annual Cannes Film Festival.
Miroslava Duma in the front row Photo by Stephane Feugere/wwd.com
After the evening show, guests crowded on to the terraces for cocktails and a fireworks display.
Spectacular Fireworks After the Show
Situated on the cliffs of Théoule-sur-Mer, the venue for the show – Le Palais Bulles – is by the Hungarian architect Antti Lovag. Fascinated by Inuit and early human dwellings that were spherical in shape, the architect began this masterwork in 1975, commissioned by Pierre Bernard. Bernard’s house came into being in 1984; by the time of his death in 1992 he requested in his last will that work on the house continue under its new owner. That new owner was and still is Pierre Cardin, the great couturier and former Head of Atelier Tailleur to Mr Christian Dior. With his immense foresight and patronage the house has flourished.
Image Sources: Christian Dior.com vogue.com/Jason Llyod-Evans style.com wwd.com/Stephane Feugere Reuters/Benoit Tessier
Text Sources: Christian Dior.com wwd.com/Miles Socha
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Monday night Karl Lagerfeld showed his Chanel Cruise 2016 Show in Seoul in the uber futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a curvaceous spaceship-like structure designed by Zaha Hadid and South Korean-based Samoo Architects.
Chanel staged the show on a modernist, minimalist set – a colorful expanse of polka dot-shaped stools and light fixtures that transformed the space into a giant Twister mat.
“It’s a cosmopolitan idea of the local fashion,” Lagerfeld said. The voluminous shapes and bold color combinations of hanboks, the South Korean equivalent of the kimono, inspired the designer. He delivered his own high-fashion versions of these full, high-waisted dresses in patchwork silk — including one in a smattering of pastel hues and another version in soft pink that closed the show. “This doesn’t exist in any other country in the eastern part of the world — only in Korea,” Lagerfeld said of the patchwork technique.
In a nod to the historical hairdos featured in South Korean period dramas, there were bold headpieces made from thick braids of black hair, some in crown formations and others in buns similar to mouse ears.
“I don’t do folklore or direct interpretation. It’s an idea of what I think it could be – or should be.”
The styles in tweed, rendered in punchy weaves of bright hues, were also standouts. “It’s an updated Korean version of the Chanel jacket,” Lagerfeld noted.
Some A-listers for the front row including Kristen Stewart, Gisele Bündchen, Tilda Swinton, Isabelle Huppert, Gaspard Ulliel, Lo-Fang and Rinko Kikuchi. Tapping into the K-pop talent pool, the fashion house enlisted the likes of rapper G-Dragon, South Korean-American singer Krystal, and singer, songwriter and dancer Taeyang to attend the show along with actresses Shin-Hye Park and Ah-Sung Go.
“The styling was really Korean. They mixed a lot of elements of traditional Korean style with Chanel’s own identity…[and] I was so proud to see this as a Korean,” G-Dragon said.
Image Sources : Style.com Vogue.com
Text Source: wwd.com
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