There are different kinds of couture fans: those who want it to move with the times, embracing modernity à la Raf Simons at Dior; those who long for the theatrics and drama of Galliano's heyday; and then there are those of British-based couture house Ralph & Russo where old meets new seamlessly - with just a little couture fairy dust sprinkled on top.

 As far as it could be from the usual concept of the fashion-week spectacle, the Ralph & Russo show takes couture back to its inception - with the women who actually buy the dresses we were about to see waiting eagerly for their debut, some actually texting designer Tamara Ralph to ensure that the one per territory that the brand allows will not end up in the wardrobe of a rival princess or Russian heiress.

The Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Couture collection is called 'Enchanted Splendour'. Set against the backdrop of an enchanted forest, Tamara Ralph’s dreamy fairy tale like creations fit the princess theme from the neck down to the toes. Her work is a tour de force of elaborate design and labor-intensive artistry and the result is a sublime blend of tradition and modernity.

"We had a lot of vintage Sixties embroideries that we redeveloped, so that was the starting point in terms of fabric," Ralph says. "The Ralph & Russo girl this season is strong, she's beautiful; the shapes are more sensual, but within that we still have a range of styles for all our clients."

'Eden' Pumps in Midnight Blue AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Bourique

Ralph & Russo 'Baroque' Heel Pumps AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Boutique

'Eden' Pumps AW15/16 available to pre-order at Harrod's Boutique & by private order

Ralph's discerning eye goes a long way to creating an opulence that somehow still remains understated, a concept nowhere more evident than in this autumn's bridal finale.

Worn by Ana Beatriz Barros, the Victorian neckline and intricate gold embroidery of the dress was given a sexy hip-hugging shape.  How can something that is comprised of 700 metres of embroidered Chantilly lace be called "simple"? That's the Ralph & Russo je ne sais quoi.

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Text Sources: Ralph & Russo     vogue/uk    wwd.com

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The show was called 'Shocking', and an invitation, a set, and a first look radiant with bright pink. Armani opened with two Shocking jackets, one, with a peplum, in Lurex-shot chenille over black velvet pants, the other, a lean, elegant crepe over color-blocked pants in velvet and satin. The shocking pink–washed backdrop of the show set the tone but Armani soon unleashed hues that boldly mixed that fearless color with brilliant lapis blue, and emerald and tourmaline greens, often in shimmering metallic effects, or dazzled with Swarovski crystals like the aurora borealis.

“For once I’m not thinking about my clients’ needs,” laughed Giorgio Armani during a preview of his Armani Privé collection. “I wanted to express my creativity! My first inspiration was to bring my drawings to life,” he continued, “to have all the girls look the same—black hair cuts, a similar allure, like a sketch.”

As if to reinforce the illusion of an illustrator’s strong painterly line, Armani defined the collection with felt pen streaks of black velvet—for the narrow line of a pant leg.

As precise and shiny as the clothes were, they had a rawness with their tattered threads and shagginess. Armani explored an infinity of textures with his feathers, knots, and fringing. There were dresses that looked collaged from scraps of fabric.

This was definitely a collection for the dark and decadent night.

As Armani said backstage, “couture has to be a dream.” This season, the designer was dreaming in glorious Technicolor.

Image Sources: style.com   flip-zone   the cut

Text Sources: style.com  wwd.com vogue.com  the cut

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Sunday night Donatella Versace brought fairies to life in her Fall 2015 Haute Couture Collection, inspired by the flora and fauna of the forest. 26,000 orchids were laid on the runway underneath glass panels, while a Medusa head made by the blooms framed the entrance to the runway.

“I call the collection tough, but ethereal at the same time,” Versace says “I wanted to explore the softer side of the Versace woman.”

Her evening dresses were in moody, dusty pastels punctuated with shots of color. From fluid columns to a pair of feathered-out ballgowns, Versace created interest with intricacies of drape and cut. The fabrics featured countless takes on texture and luminosity, sometimes in the same look.

Image Sources:  style.com   flipzone.com   wwd.com     Text Source: wwd.com  

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