September 11th. Lower Manhattan. The mesmerizing twilight sky outlining the Freedom Tower. An exquisite delivery of "Ave Maria". The emotion all but overwhelmed.

Few expect a fashion show to be a contemplative experience, yet this is what they got from Riccardo Tisci on the night he brought his Givenchy show to New York City, coinciding with the 14th anniversary of 9/11. With the aid of performance artist Marina Abramovic and a staggering sunset across the Hudson, Tisci approached the show as a moment for reflection. He acknowledged the resonance of September 11th not by drawing inappropriate parallel to fashion, but by noting the importance of fashion as an expression of self and an outlet for emotion.

There was also a serene sense of celebration. Tisci marks his tenth-year milestone at the house of Givenchy and a Givenchy store opens in New York City. 

The show’s major themes were lingerie and tuxedo dressing, often worn in resplendent contrast, and always with lyrical grace. The play of feminine against masculine.

White laces and silks wrapped, tied and floated over fluid black trousers, some looks finished with languid robes and others, mannish tails.

Tisci incorporated sensual couture gowns with intense constructions and surprised with a significant showing of men’s wear.

Tisci subscribes to the value of ritual; the religious references in his work are well-known. He also revisited last season’s facial decoration, now more exaggerated and ritualistic.

A different kind of performance art unfolded during arrivals, a dazzling celebrity showing — Julia Roberts, Christina Ricci, Steven Tyler, Liv Tyler, Nicki Minaj, and of course, Kim and Kanye. Representatives of New York fashion turned out as well: Michael Kors, Tory Burch, the Proenza guys, Alexander Wang, Joseph Altuzarra.

Image Sources: vogue.com   nowfashion.com

Text Sources: wwd.com  vogue.com

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There are different kinds of couture fans: those who want it to move with the times, embracing modernity à la Raf Simons at Dior; those who long for the theatrics and drama of Galliano's heyday; and then there are those of British-based couture house Ralph & Russo where old meets new seamlessly - with just a little couture fairy dust sprinkled on top.

 As far as it could be from the usual concept of the fashion-week spectacle, the Ralph & Russo show takes couture back to its inception - with the women who actually buy the dresses we were about to see waiting eagerly for their debut, some actually texting designer Tamara Ralph to ensure that the one per territory that the brand allows will not end up in the wardrobe of a rival princess or Russian heiress.

The Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Couture collection is called 'Enchanted Splendour'. Set against the backdrop of an enchanted forest, Tamara Ralph’s dreamy fairy tale like creations fit the princess theme from the neck down to the toes. Her work is a tour de force of elaborate design and labor-intensive artistry and the result is a sublime blend of tradition and modernity.

"We had a lot of vintage Sixties embroideries that we redeveloped, so that was the starting point in terms of fabric," Ralph says. "The Ralph & Russo girl this season is strong, she's beautiful; the shapes are more sensual, but within that we still have a range of styles for all our clients."

'Eden' Pumps in Midnight Blue AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Bourique

Ralph & Russo 'Baroque' Heel Pumps AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Boutique

'Eden' Pumps AW15/16 available to pre-order at Harrod's Boutique & by private order

Ralph's discerning eye goes a long way to creating an opulence that somehow still remains understated, a concept nowhere more evident than in this autumn's bridal finale.

Worn by Ana Beatriz Barros, the Victorian neckline and intricate gold embroidery of the dress was given a sexy hip-hugging shape.  How can something that is comprised of 700 metres of embroidered Chantilly lace be called "simple"? That's the Ralph & Russo je ne sais quoi.

Images Sources: Ralph & Russo    flip-zone.com    facebook/Ralph&Russo

Text Sources: Ralph & Russo     vogue/uk    wwd.com

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The young designer Paul Vasileff launched his first collection in 2007 at the age of 17. A perfectionist with a penchant for classic beauty, the Adelaide designer has impressed the industry with his maturity and scope of his creative vision.

A firm favourite on both the runway and red carpet, Paolo Sebastian specialises in custom-made couture tailored to accentuate the beauty of the individual. Classic designs reminiscent of old Hollywood glamour exude timeless elegance, paired with a contemporary edge. Often featuring impeccably tailored boning and the tiniest of hand sewn floral appliques, Paolo Sebastian creations encapsulate both the boldness of high fashion and the delicate innocence of beauty.

Handmade in South Australia, each piece is a triumph of custom-made craftsmanship. Opulent silks, French lace and romantic silhouettes are key features of Paolo Sebastian creations, often featuring delicate hand beading.

Image Sources: paolosebastian.com   facebook.com/paolo.sebastian   Text Source: paolosebastian.com

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