Elizabeth Kennedy ’s Spring collection dazzles. At the urging of Bergdorf Goodman, Elizabeth debuted her first evening wear collection in 2012. Prior to that she designed in-demand couture for BG’s clients and headed Donna Karen Atelier. For the Spring 2018 RTW collection she mentions René Magritte as a creative influence.
Alice Temperley took the cue for her Spring 2016 RTW collection from Havana and other hot Latin American climes. 'The mood reflects Cuba and the forbidden yet tempting fantasy of island life – its decadent cultural heritage and the nonchalant and mysterious attitude of its capital city Havana.'
"I wanted this to be romantic and decadent, but also colorful and happy,” said the designer. “Clothes should be about escapism, and for summer they should also be easy, comfortable, cool and eclectic.”
The designer sent out a lineup of dresses covered in embroidery and other needlework done in a summer garden color palette inspired by the images of Robert Polidori. There were belted cotton dresses, many with circle skirts and a ruffle around the neckline.
The heart of this collection was Temperley’s heavily embroidered sundresses, and likewise embellished sundress like ensembles. Backed in crisp white or navy cotton, these pieces came in a variety of relaxed silhouettes and played host to a virtual fireworks display of floral and abstract embroidered patterns.
Others silhouettes were more inspired by the region’s folk doll figurines, as in a loose-fitting black dress with orange sequins, and the dark, patterned knitwear.
Image Sources: Umberto Fratini/Indigitalimages via vogue.com temperlylondon.com
Text Sources: temperlylondon.com Samantha Conti/wwd.com Maya Singer/ vogue.com
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“A botanical menagerie of caged birds” was the inspiration for Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s feminine Marchesa spring lineup. And while it was frothy with its pale pinks, greens and yellows, there was also a darker, romantic mood weaved throughout.
There were fluffy feathered skirts, 3-D embroideries of flora and fauna, artfully arched modesty-preserving wings. Bird and petal motifs rendered in 3-D embroidery imbued movement and texture to the lineup’s dramatic evening gowns.
With voluminous skirts featuring layers of dip-dyed tulle in an ombré of pastels, the gowns, some decorated with back bows and lace-up detailing, were nothing short of exquisite.
