Elizabeth Kennedy ’s Spring collection dazzles. At the urging of Bergdorf Goodman, Elizabeth debuted her first evening wear collection in 2012. Prior to that she designed in-demand couture for BG’s clients and headed Donna Karen Atelier. For the Spring 2018 RTW collection she mentions René Magritte as a creative influence.
“A botanical menagerie of caged birds” was the inspiration for Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s feminine Marchesa spring lineup. And while it was frothy with its pale pinks, greens and yellows, there was also a darker, romantic mood weaved throughout.
There were fluffy feathered skirts, 3-D embroideries of flora and fauna, artfully arched modesty-preserving wings. Bird and petal motifs rendered in 3-D embroidery imbued movement and texture to the lineup’s dramatic evening gowns.
With voluminous skirts featuring layers of dip-dyed tulle in an ombré of pastels, the gowns, some decorated with back bows and lace-up detailing, were nothing short of exquisite.
There are different kinds of couture fans: those who want it to move with the times, embracing modernity à la Raf Simons at Dior; those who long for the theatrics and drama of Galliano's heyday; and then there are those of British-based couture house Ralph & Russo where old meets new seamlessly - with just a little couture fairy dust sprinkled on top.
As far as it could be from the usual concept of the fashion-week spectacle, the Ralph & Russo show takes couture back to its inception - with the women who actually buy the dresses we were about to see waiting eagerly for their debut, some actually texting designer Tamara Ralph to ensure that the one per territory that the brand allows will not end up in the wardrobe of a rival princess or Russian heiress.
The Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Couture collection is called 'Enchanted Splendour'. Set against the backdrop of an enchanted forest, Tamara Ralph’s dreamy fairy tale like creations fit the princess theme from the neck down to the toes. Her work is a tour de force of elaborate design and labor-intensive artistry and the result is a sublime blend of tradition and modernity.
"We had a lot of vintage Sixties embroideries that we redeveloped, so that was the starting point in terms of fabric," Ralph says. "The Ralph & Russo girl this season is strong, she's beautiful; the shapes are more sensual, but within that we still have a range of styles for all our clients."
'Eden' Pumps in Midnight Blue AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Bourique
'Eden' Pumps AW15/16 available to pre-order at Harrod's Boutique & by private order
Ralph's discerning eye goes a long way to creating an opulence that somehow still remains understated, a concept nowhere more evident than in this autumn's bridal finale.
Worn by Ana Beatriz Barros, the Victorian neckline and intricate gold embroidery of the dress was given a sexy hip-hugging shape. How can something that is comprised of 700 metres of embroidered Chantilly lace be called "simple"? That's the Ralph & Russo je ne sais quoi.
Images Sources: Ralph & Russo flip-zone.com facebook/Ralph&Russo
Text Sources: Ralph & Russo vogue/uk wwd.com
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