There are different kinds of couture fans: those who want it to move with the times, embracing modernity à la Raf Simons at Dior; those who long for the theatrics and drama of Galliano's heyday; and then there are those of British-based couture house Ralph & Russo where old meets new seamlessly - with just a little couture fairy dust sprinkled on top.

 As far as it could be from the usual concept of the fashion-week spectacle, the Ralph & Russo show takes couture back to its inception - with the women who actually buy the dresses we were about to see waiting eagerly for their debut, some actually texting designer Tamara Ralph to ensure that the one per territory that the brand allows will not end up in the wardrobe of a rival princess or Russian heiress.

The Autumn/Winter 2015/16 Couture collection is called 'Enchanted Splendour'. Set against the backdrop of an enchanted forest, Tamara Ralph’s dreamy fairy tale like creations fit the princess theme from the neck down to the toes. Her work is a tour de force of elaborate design and labor-intensive artistry and the result is a sublime blend of tradition and modernity.

"We had a lot of vintage Sixties embroideries that we redeveloped, so that was the starting point in terms of fabric," Ralph says. "The Ralph & Russo girl this season is strong, she's beautiful; the shapes are more sensual, but within that we still have a range of styles for all our clients."

'Eden' Pumps in Midnight Blue AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Bourique

Ralph & Russo 'Baroque' Heel Pumps AW15/16 pre-order at Harrod's Boutique

'Eden' Pumps AW15/16 available to pre-order at Harrod's Boutique & by private order

Ralph's discerning eye goes a long way to creating an opulence that somehow still remains understated, a concept nowhere more evident than in this autumn's bridal finale.

Worn by Ana Beatriz Barros, the Victorian neckline and intricate gold embroidery of the dress was given a sexy hip-hugging shape.  How can something that is comprised of 700 metres of embroidered Chantilly lace be called "simple"? That's the Ralph & Russo je ne sais quoi.

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Sunday night Donatella Versace brought fairies to life in her Fall 2015 Haute Couture Collection, inspired by the flora and fauna of the forest. 26,000 orchids were laid on the runway underneath glass panels, while a Medusa head made by the blooms framed the entrance to the runway.

“I call the collection tough, but ethereal at the same time,” Versace says “I wanted to explore the softer side of the Versace woman.”

Her evening dresses were in moody, dusty pastels punctuated with shots of color. From fluid columns to a pair of feathered-out ballgowns, Versace created interest with intricacies of drape and cut. The fabrics featured countless takes on texture and luminosity, sometimes in the same look.

Image Sources:  style.com   flipzone.com   wwd.com     Text Source: wwd.com  

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Mary Katrantzou wanted to evoke a sense of “ease” with her resort collection. “I wanted it to be a bit effortless,” she said. There are mini- and maxidresses in deep pink or bright white, their blocks of color sliced with sections of sun-ray pleats in rainbow stripes. Katrantzou also melded together Op-Art stripes and rich floral imagery from early-20th-century flower seed packets, making for a modern yet romantic effect.

Image Source:  style.com          Text Sources: wwd.com

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